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There are several overlapping versions of this place, each independent and seemingly the only one; the people
living inside them are not aware that just next door there is another piece of the same cake, farata of the
same dough, bouillon brede from the same plant, briyani from the same pot and boulettes from the same broth
going on. But ultimately they all mingle and form this one unique sizzling brew called Port Louis.
So this is the capital of Mauritius; famous for its heat, traffic jams, street vendors, great food stands and
weekly market. The latter really takes place all week, just on Thursdays it is even bigger. Some people claim
that this is the place where one needs to hold onto one's belongings, others tell stories about losing their
wallet and having it returned there. The tales are as many as the market is vast. Not to miss: the section
with local fruit and vegetables, as there are some unusual shapes and colours and it’s a real experience to
stroll between the swift moving Chinese, determined to get their bargains, portly Creole matrons ploughing
their way through the crowds, holding fast onto their colourful baskets; tiny Tamil ladies with golden
bangles, walking like shy gazelles, eyes darting expectantly from one stand to the other; or grand white or
seemingly white ladies accompanied by their servants, sweating profusely in the sweltering heat. Definitely
not for convinced vegetarians and those with frail nerves: the meat market opposite it. Better try some island
delicacies and sweet national brew “alouda” in the food court.
The market is the heart within the heart of Mauritius; located across the street from Caudan Waterfront, the
newly built cluster of shopping malls; once warehouses by the old harbour, today a thriving tourist attraction
with a myriad of shops, restaurants, a movie theatre, a hotel, a museum and great views over the new harbour,
especially from the Chinese restaurant on the first floor. By taking the underground passage (safer!) back to
the old part of the city, the eager visitor will stroll along palm studded boulevards, crowded sidewalks and
busy streets and see attractions by the dozens. Here are some one should not miss: the Museum for Photography
where treasures in sepia wait to reveal glimpses in the glorious past; the Jummah Mosque that was built in
this glorious past and offers visitors a chance to meet Islam; the Mauritius Natural History Museum with a
collection of extinct animals and a reproduction of the Dodo; the Company Garden with statues, greenery and an
interesting ambience; and the small but pleasant Blue Penny stamp museum featuring one of the world’s most
expensive misprints; Fort Adelaide or “La Citadel” as it is commonly called, the British fortress that was
built to fend off the French who went to fight in World War 1 instead.
On Saturdays, the oldest racing track in the Southern Hemisphere comes to life with a bang: the Champs de Mars
horse racing track attracts visitors from all over the island. Some eager to risk a high hemline and attract a
few glances, others keen on risking a few rupees in a frenzied dance with lady luck; most enamoured with those
magnificent four-legged creatures, a few just along for the thrill; all of them cheering, stomping, clutching
their tote tickets and waiting for the winner. And there are a myriad of shops selling just about anything
under the sun. And finally there are the people of Port Louis themselves, one of the main attractions, and one
should take time to take in the many little dramas unfolding by the side of the road as one walks on,
definitely appreciating good shoes as the ground is very uneven and varies from centuries old cobblestones to
ancient layers of asphalt. Beware of steep curbs and deep gutters. And always carry a bottle of water unless
it rains. And when it rains in Port Louis, it pours! So bringing an umbrella-like device is wise, as it can be
used to keep off sunshine and raindrops alike. Be prepared for a colourful, turbulent and adventurous
experience and let Port Louis sweep you away.
Those who decide to take a stroll in downtown
Port Louis should not miss a visit to the Central Market with its myriad of things to discover and enjoy.
Missing out on this landmark would leave a serious gap in each island visit. The market is located between the
Motorway and Farquhar Street opposite the Waterfront and the old post office and open daily except for
Sundays. Walking up Independence Street brings one not only into a very busy district, but also right in front
of the old theatre which was built in 1822 and still today hosts all kinds of plays, operas and also gala
dinners and social gatherings.
The Company Garden is a small green oasis in the midst of the bustling capital. It is well worth a stroll not
only for its plants, but also for the statues of famous island sons, and the old Baobab trees. Right besides
it, the Mauritius Natural History Museum hosts some of the most spectacular treasures. In its museum section,
the skeleton of a Dodo can be seen, alongside depictions of rare birds. The library features a precious
collection of old documents, books and paintings. Those who would like a more accurate glimpse of bygone days
may drop by the Museum of Photography. Sepia brown coloured treasures take them away into the times of horse
drawn carriages, sailing boats and colonial splendour.
In the many shops at Le Caudan Waterfront, one may find clothes, jewellery, souvenirs and have a bite at the
food court or in one of the many cafes or restaurants. The crafts market is the largest and best on the
island. On the other side, by the hotel Labourdonnais, the Blue Penny Museum displays the famous postal stamp
as part of an interesting exhibition. At Le Caudan Waterfront, a myriad of shops, a bank, a cinema as well as
cafes and restaurants provide almost anything one could hope to find in Mauritius and a surprising amount of
things one never dreamt of actually wanting to find!
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Quatre-Bornes
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